29thFeb
This update is a while overdue. Mainly due to lack of internet access. Two weeks have already passed since I arrived on the island of Nias. It’s a culture that takes a bit of time to get to understand and as we will be working in some really remote hill villages we have to make sure we get to grips with their customs and beliefs.
We are based in the islands biggest town - Gunung Sitoli which we were amazed to see has its own museum. Got the chance to be shown round by the curator on our own private tour. It has not reopened to the public since the earthquake when 100’s of their exhibits were damaged. The Chinese and the Dutch have had the most influence here. The Chinese bringing noodles and effigies of dragons and the Dutch bringing religion and the idea that it’s good to bury your dead. Before they used to prop the dead up on chairs outside their house. Glad they don’t do that anymore!
The Nias’ are renowned for their aggression and upto the 1980’s the practice of head hunting was still going on. And I don’t mean poaching good staff from other NGOs! They would take a big sword jump the fence of the neighbouring village and try to return with the head of the village chief. This would secure the hand of the fairest lady in the town. The curator could remember this happening in his village when he was a child. His father spied the head hunter approaching the village and him and some friends saw him off. You can still see houses built in the traditional way like this one reconstructed at the museum. They are strong, earthquake proof and built from local materials. Sadly they are slowly falling into disrepair and craftsman skilled in this building technique are hard to find.
People here prefer the modern concrete designs of a rectangular block and corrugated iron roof. In the rebuild after the earthquake this monotonous design is multiplying like Monopoly houses across the island.
We are living in a big hill top compound. It used to be a restaurant with a terrasse over looking the sea. It’s a great location but just too big for what we need.
This update is a while overdue. Mainly due to lack of internet access. Two weeks have already passed since I arrived on the island of Nias. It’s a culture that takes a bit of time to get to understand and as we will be working in some really remote hill villages we have to make sure we get to grips with their customs and beliefs.
We are based in the islands biggest town - Gunung Sitoli which we were amazed to see has its own museum. Got the chance to be shown round by the curator on our own private tour. It has not reopened to the public since the earthquake when 100’s of their exhibits were damaged. The Chinese and the Dutch have had the most influence here. The Chinese bringing noodles and effigies of dragons and the Dutch bringing religion and the idea that it’s good to bury your dead. Before they used to prop the dead up on chairs outside their house. Glad they don’t do that anymore!
The Nias’ are renowned for their aggression and upto the 1980’s the practice of head hunting was still going on. And I don’t mean poaching good staff from other NGOs! They would take a big sword jump the fence of the neighbouring village and try to return with the head of the village chief. This would secure the hand of the fairest lady in the town. The curator could remember this happening in his village when he was a child. His father spied the head hunter approaching the village and him and some friends saw him off. You can still see houses built in the traditional way like this one reconstructed at the museum. They are strong, earthquake proof and built from local materials. Sadly they are slowly falling into disrepair and craftsman skilled in this building technique are hard to find.
People here prefer the modern concrete designs of a rectangular block and corrugated iron roof. In the rebuild after the earthquake this monotonous design is multiplying like Monopoly houses across the island.
We are living in a big hill top compound. It used to be a restaurant with a terrasse over looking the sea. It’s a great location but just too big for what we need.
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